Salvador is unlike anywhere else in Brazil. The country's first capital and, for centuries, the main port of the colony, it grew into the beating heart of Afro-Brazilian culture, and it still is. Capoeira circles turn on street corners, Olodum drums carry down from the hills, candomblé traditions run deep, and the Bahian kitchen of acarajé, moqueca and dendê palm oil is a world of its own.
We suggest two to three unhurried, privately guided days to do the city justice. That's time enough for the cobbled streets and baroque churches of the UNESCO-listed Pelourinho, its museums of Afro-Brazilian history and art, and the magnificent Bahian cuisine, and, if you'd like, an authentic capoeira taster session with a local mestre, part martial art, part dance, wholly Bahian.
With a day or two more, the region opens up: the colonial river towns of the Recôncavo at Cachoeira and São Félix, the quilombo community of Tereré and the beaches of Itaparica Island across the bay, or the wind-sculpted dunes of Santo Antônio and a gentle kayak down the Imbassaí where it runs behind the sand. When the city has worked its magic, we round the trip off up the coast at Praia do Forte, a laid-back fishing village made for slow beach days before you fly home.